AT Thru-hike Day 34 to Day 39

Day 34 – Hot Springs to Spring Mountain Shelter

I got up a bit later than I would have liked but it was fine since I only planned to do 11 miles out to the first shelter and check out wasn’t until 1100.

I had a bit of a scare while I was getting everything packed up to head out. Gambit was free to roam around the hostel as he pleased and mostly he just laid on the floor near the front door, earning the nickname “floor mat”. I was just about ready to get his pack on him and I couldn’t find him anywhere. I walked up and down the hostel twice looking for him, so I assumed he must have gotten outside somehow.

I grabbed his leash and went out to look for him. I wandered around the property and then down into town, I couldn’t find him anywhere! I was panicking and started heading back toward the hostel to see if he maybe came back from a different way and the owner Jeff pulled up, he said he’d found Gambit. I got in the car and he was telling me that one of the room doors in the hostel closes on its own and that he’d pushed himself in and the door had closed behind him. 

A massive wave of relief washed over me while we drove back up the road. We went in to the hostel and there he was assuming his position as the “floor mat”. I gave him a super big hug and told him I was worried sick.

We were ready to go shortly after I got back; I got our packs on us and out the door we went. I stopped into the outdoor shop on the way through town to spend some change on another sticker for my new Nalgene bottle – gotta drop them grams, ermaright? 🤓

Random train car in Hot Springs.

Left the store and up the road/trail we went. We crossed the bridge, took a right into the NOC property and worked our way up the path along the river.

Trail along side the French Broad River.

French Broad River.

And then the climb started… and it kept going for a long time, but the view back toward Hot Springs was pretty fantastic.

Back view of Hot Springs from the trail as I made my ascent.

After a couple miles Penguin caught up to me, we walked together for a little while. He filled me in on the adventures with his family and friends that came out to visit him while we had our nero and zero days. We eventually caught up to Sara C, she had left right around the time Gambit did his disappearing act.

I was ready for a food break so we decided on the next spot available to sit down for a few minutes. That spot ended up being a manmade pond with a big concrete retaining wall.

Little pond along the trail.

There were a couple of benches installed along the side of the pond, dropped our packs and proceeded to feed our faces with Clif and Snickers bars.

There was a fire going already by the time I made it to the shelter. Nope, Switchback and Penguin were already there. The winds were coming in pretty strong from the north so I set up my hammock on the south side of the saddle the shelter sits in.

We sat around the fire for a while, talked and made dinner. Sara C showed up after a short while and a bit later on Butterfeet came wandering in with his dog Leelo. Gambit was so happy to see her, they played together for a little while.

After darkness set in everyone wandered off to their respective sleeping areas for the night. I read for a little bit and went to bed like I usually do. I woke up sometime after midnight to my tarp on the south side of me pressed into my side. The wind had shifted direction and the temperature had dropped.

Day 35 – Spring Mountain Shelter to Jerry Cabin Shelter

I woke several times throughout the night with my tarp smashed into my back. I got up once to use the privy and one of my stakes popped out when I bumped my tarp on the way out. I got that fixed and made my way over the saddle to the privy, almost no wind on the north side, same as the south side was when I set up my shelter the evening before.

The winds were still blasting the crap out of me when I finally got up after the sun came up. The wind put me in a bad mood that ended up lasting the rest of the day. While taking my tarp down the wind caught it and popped three of my stakes out into the leaves somewhere. I always carried two extras, but with three missing I’m limited on where I can hang with cover.

This is how I felt about the trail today.

I got everything packed up as fast as I could so I could get out of the saddle and the wind tunnel of misery I spent the night in. The plan was to get to Jerry Cabin, at 15.9 miles away so I had a long walk ahead of me.

Flat Stanley says, “hello”.

Looking back I don’t remember much of the day, just a lot of walking. I do remember coming upon this sign for the bypass around Big Firescald Knob and I had zero shame in taking the bypass around.

Yeah, I took the no shame trail.

Not long after the bypass was Jerry Cabin Shelter. Two things were cool here: 1) I reached a minor milestone of 300 miles hiked, and 2) Nope was already there and had a fire going in the fireplace.

Snow was in the forecast for the night so most of us slept in the shelter. We all took our turns sitting around the fireplace before retiring to our sleeping bags. After reading a short time, I dozed off. I only had to get up once to pee that night!

I’m noticing I get really hungry around 0400 lately and need to eat something before I can fall back asleep.

Day 36 – Jerry Cabin Shelter to Laurel Hostel

It snowed! Real snow, like the kind I was used to growing up with and romping in as a kid in Utah. It was only a few inches, but it was a mostly welcome sight to me. It was below freezing during the night so I figured I’d finally have the opportunity to wear my microspikes that I carried the last 300 miles.

Snow!

Gambit and I hit the trail and he seemed pretty excited about this new white stuff. It was only going to be around a 10 mile day to the hostel at mile 310 since the next two nights were forecasted to be 16 deg and 14 deg with subzero windchill temperatures.

Gorgeous snowy field.

We moved along pretty well, mostly following the footprints of those that got on the trail earlier. I still kept my eyes looking for the white blazes just because.

Gambit was loving the snow.

We briefly stopped at Flint Mountain Shelter for a food break, but I got back on the trail after a few minutes since my sweat started freezing on me. I had one too many layers on since the morning which had caused my arms to sweat and that sweat travelled down into my gloves. By mile seven my gloves were pretty wet inside, but they still kept me warm.

So much snow, it was awesome.

When we came to the road crossing at Devil Fork Gap there was a car parked there and a guy popped out of it and yelled, “trail magic!” My first experience with it so far. Just as Penguin, Gambit and I got to the car Butterfeet, his dog Leelo, and Sara C  were getting ready to get back on the trail.

We sat in the car and talked to the gentleman for a little while while eating the burgers and Gatorade he’d brought. Turns out he is a volunteer ranger in the Smokies and he does trail magic at this gap and Sam’s Gap during the hiking season.

We thanked him for the warm car, food and drinks and got back on the trail to knock out the last half mile to the hostel. There were plenty of signs up pointing the way to the new place called Laurel Hostel. Apparently Hiker Paradise is shutdown now.

Got to the hostel and claimed myself one of the six bunks. There is a shower and sink in the hostel and a privy outside of it. He told us to make sure the water stayed on since it was below freezing out and would be for the next couple days. He turned the hot water heater on for us so we could all shower. Mostly I just wanted out of my wet clothes and asked him if he could dry them for me, which he did.

Momma Bear, Smiles and Trigger showed up and had no problem sharing a bed for the night since the rest were already taken.

We all took a trip into Erwin later in the early evening. We went to a Mexican restaurant there called Los Jalapenos. We got there right before all the hikers from Uncle Johnny’s showed up. It was cool to see a few of the speedster again that had blown past me over the last couple weeks. It seems everyone was hunkered down for the cold front hitting us the next two days.

Enjoying a meal with my trail family.

We got back to the hostel and one more guy had shown up, Chef I think his name was. I’d seen him in Hot Springs a few days before. One of the guys that didn’t go into town with us had turned the water off while we were gone so the pipe froze up and no showers…

We got into our sleeping bags to try and stay warm since the building was cold even with two space heaters going. Benefit of having a top bunk that night was that the little bit of heat that was produced rose up.

It did get cold that night, but I actually had to remove my bag liner since I was too warm with it on. 

Day 37 – Zero Day

We had a solid day to sit here and critique the hostel. Mostly it wasn’t bad, it also wasn’t quite ready for hikers yet. It was useable at 90ish percent done, but it needed some more attention. The floor, walls, and ceiling had absolutely no insulation in them – you could see ground between the gaps in the floor planks. During the peak hiker season that probably doesn’t matter much, but on a subfreezing night like we had some insulation would have been extremely beneficial.

We had a lot of time to sit around looking for every crack and gap that we wanted to fill with insulation just to keep some more of the heat in. It was something to keep our restless minds busy while we waited out this cold.

We had all decided to do another town shuttle, but this time to Wal-Mart for some minor resupply and so we could all pitch in and bring food back to eat. I picked up a rotisserie chicken and a small tub of potato salad.

When we got back to the hostel we had more guests and a little bit later another two, Bucky and Wade finally caught back up. We offered our feast to everyone else after our little family got our fill. 

We got filled in on the past few days since we last saw Bicky and Wade, also known on the trail as Bucky and the Nuts. They had spent the last night freezing up in a shelter and pushed to get here to this shelter for this night that would be even colder than the night before.

The hostel owner brought us a propane heater that helped way more than the plug-in space heaters, it actually got the temperature up to 40 degrees in there that night.

Gambit had spent most of the afternoon cuddling with Bucky, but when it came to bedtime he hopped up on Sara’s bed and cuddles with her for the night. I guess we were probably all asleep by 2100 that night. Six of us on bunks and five on the floor.

Day 38 – Laurel Hostel to Sam’s Gap

We we’re all up fairly early and most of us stayed in bed until the sun came up in hopes of a little more warmth to start the day with. The young speedster that showed up for the night were first out the door that morning. 

I kind of took my time, I wasn’t sure if I was going to push up to Bald Mountain Shelter or just push it to Sam’s Gap and spend another night in a hostel out of the weather. About a mile in to the trail and I discovered that we would only be going to Sam’s Gap. Gambit’s back right paw was bleeding, when I got a look at it it one of his pads had cracked open.

Gambit spent most of the day bouncing between Sara C and me. We switched lead a few times as one of us would stop for a little break to drink or take a picture of something.

Gorgeous view!

We kept pushing on to Hogback Ridge Shelter and there was a business card in the register for a shuttle service. Penguin, Butterfeet and Lucky Charm were pushing onto the shelter. Myself, Sara C and My Own Time all decided on the shuttle into town. 

Gambit wouldn’t even let me get a good look at his paws, I was going to try and wrap them up before we got back on the trail, but I decided to wait until I was in a more sanitary environment at the hostel.
We finished the hike down into the gap and our ride was right on time at 1630. I ended up at Uncle Johnny’s, Bucky and Wade had gotten a ride into Erwin from Laurel Hostel and spent the night at the Super 8, My Own Time and Sara C  joined them there.

My cabin at Uncle Johnny’s.

At the hostel I bumped into Jason, the Marine that we startes out with and I hadn’t seen since Dick’s Gap back in GA. He was actually at Standing Bear Farm with Gambit while I was going through the Smokies and had mostly stayed about three days ahead of me. He ended up getting hurt and pretty much crawled into Uncle Johnny’s. He said he would be off the trail for a short time while resolving a few issues with the VA.

I’d asked him if he could help me with Gambit so I could get his back legs wrapped up. He had split open a pad on each back paw, only the right one was bleeding on the trail that I noticed. He held him down for me whole I got his paws wrapped up and coated in the steroid cream I got from the vet in GA.

He was in so much pain and I realized that I couldn’t put him through anymore hiking until he was fully healed up. I felt so bad for him as I was making the decision to get off the trail for a week or two to give him time to heal up properly. I cried for a little bit and just held him, I didn’t realize making the decision to get off the trail could be so emotional.

Gambit’s poor feet hurt him so much.

I coordinated with one of my friends back in Kentucky to come pick me up the next day. I spent most of the rest of the evening just sitting there with Gambit on my cabin room. We went to bed and I cuddled with him while we fell asleep.

Day 39 – Uncle Johnny’s to Home

I went to breakfast with a few of the people that had stayed at the hostel. As the day went along more and more people I recognized popped into the hostel. Momma Bear, Smiles and Trigger plopped in just for resupply and were on the way back out.

A little bit later on Penguin, Butterfeet, Leelo and Lucky Charm showed up. I let them know about my plan to leave for a short time and that I would just meet back up with the group wherever they were at on the trail and make up the miles after I summit with them.

We all went out to a little event in town at a place called Choo Choo Cafe. It was a nice little place, they had a little buffet line and upstairs live music and beer tasting. We all went up there and bullshitted while I waited on my ride home to show up.

My little trail family sans Sara C and Penguin (taking the photo). L to R – Bucky, Butterfeet, Switchback, Lucky Charm, Wade, myself.

The event ended right about the time that my ride showed up to the hostel. We all loaded up, except Wade and Bucky, in the shuttle and rode back to the hostel. I got my gear loaded up in the car and said my goodbyes to everyone, with the promise that we would be back on the trail in a week or two after Gambit’s feet healed up.

So in 38 days Gambit and I walked 318 miles, we finished Georgia and got through the majority of the trail that bounced between Tennessee and North Carolina as the AT worked it’s way up the borderline. We will be back to join our trail family, around the start of the month; depending on how Gambit’s paws are looking.

AT Thru-hike Day 30 to Day 33

Day 30 – Standing Bear Farm to Groundhog Creek Shelter

It was so good to spend the night on a real mattress after the Smokies. I enjoyed the hostel for the most part and had considered taking a zero, but was ready to move on toward Hot Springs.

We decided on a short day just up to the first shelter so Gambit could get his trail legs back after lazing for six days. The climb up was tougher than o thought it would be, but maybe I’m just getting tired. It didn’t help that it was hot and I’ve only got my cold weather gear. I actually stopped on the climb and ordered a pair of shorts and a lightweight shirt from Amazon for delivery in Hot Springs.

So happy to have him back with me.

We got into the shelter pretty early, by 1300 I think. I had considered moving on another 8.3 miles to the next shelter like Wade and Bucky planned, but I decided to hang out here with Penguin, Butterfeet and Sara C.

We sat around camp, talked for a while, I got my hammock set up, and ate. Slowly more people started showing up. A guy that Penguin called Rooster the next morning was one of them. Two brothers that he named the Sons of Thunder. Mama Bear, Smiles and Trigger showed up later in the afternoon.

Gambit and Trigger.

Gambit and Trigger had so much fun playing for the rest of the evening. We got a fire going and insisted that everyone come and socialize with us. This is what the trail is supposed to be about as far as I’m concerned and I like to think we leave a good impression on all the speedsters that zoom past our growing little trail family.

It must have been around 2100 that night by the time I got in my hammock and I was out pretty quickly.

Day 31 – Groundhog Creek Shelter to Taylor Hollow Gap

I woke up to the sounds of everyone else at the shelter getting up and starting their days. I was so much more rested than I am even in a real bed. I just laid there and listened to the sounds for a while before I got up myself.

I’ve gotten pretty good at doing the whole clothing change thing while lying in my hammock. So I pop out of my hammock tarp in the mornings fully dressed back in my hiking clothes.

Gambit and I were the last to get on the trail this day. The climb up to Max Patch wasn’t too bad at all. AT Brown Gap we caught up to and passed Momma Bear, Smiles and Trigger. I chatted with them for a little while and was off to the rest of the climb.

Almost up on Max Patch.

Max Patch bench mark.

Southern view on Max Patch.

It was such a gorgeous, clear day for this climb. I got up to the top of the clearing and you could see for miles in every direction. I was just wanderi g along admiring it all when I heard Penguin say, “over here”. Him, Butterfeet and Sara C. were all sitting with a group of people with some kids and dogs. So, I dropped my pack and sat down with them. I received a little trail magic in the form of half a cucumber with hummus and some red seedless grapes.

Taking a few minutes to relax on the bald with my pup.

Northern view on Max Patch.

They took off after a while and we prepared to get back on the trail ourselves. I took a few minutes to just lay there with Gambit and soak it all in before we got back on the trail.

I stopped in at the next shelter for some water and the privy. I saw a note from Bucky, Wade and Bear. Seems they got some trail magic as well staying here the night before. I think I was at the next shelter at around 1530. Penguin was the only one there and Butterfeet was in right behind me. They talked about pushing on to the next shelter and making it a 23 mile day so they could get into Hot Springs earlier.

It piqued my interest, Sara C. had pushed on as well to get a little more ground while it was still so light out. Gambit was a little pooped, but I fed him and he got some of his energy back. I also ate to fuel up some to push on a few more miles or until we got tired.

He’s so handsome!

A few more miles kept adding up and eventually it was dark so I put on my headlamp to continue on until I found a suitable camping site. The problem was most of the trail was side cut with fairly steep terrain so we needed to find a mostly flat clearing somewhere.

Not long after Garenflo Gap we finally found a little trail side campground with a firepit. Gambit just plopped on the ground exhausted and I got my hammock and tarp setup as quickly as I could. I set out his food and water under the tarp and got to making myself something warm to eat before collapsing into my hammock for the night. I think we ended up doing somewhere between 20 and 21 miles, our longest day so far on the trail.

Day 32 – Taylor Hollow Gap to Hot Springs

It rained pretty hard during the night, the sound of it pelting my tarp actually woke me up a few times. I finally got out of my hammock after it seemed to have stopped and the morning light dominated the sky.

I packed up in a hurry so I could get into Hot Spring early to enjoy my nero. I just ate some snacks for breakfast and added a few more to my hip pack for the five or so miles into town. Rooster came blazing by as I was getting the last couple of things packed up for the trail.

After I got to the next shelter I realized that we were maybe two miles away from it. I stopped in just to see if anyone was still around and it was vacant. We got back on the trail and the remaining three miles was uneventful, pretty much like most of the trail. Lots of trees all around and the only noises are the thoughts in your brain and the occasional gust of wind.

We popped out of the trailhead into Hot Springs around 1100. The hostel I would be staying at, Laughing Heart, was right there next to the trail. I met up with Jeff, the owner, and he got me and Gambit settled into our room. He showed us the rest of the place and in the back room was Bear! We talked for a few minutes before I went back to my room.

First order of business was to get laundry going and showering so I could go into town for some groceries. I got everything I owned into the washing machine except my puffy jacket. I got in the shower and it was glorious! Such a simple thing a shower is and it had only been three days.

I ended up using some clothes from the hiker box so we could hit up Dollar General for some food. I’ve come to discover that I really need to make lists, since I just grab everything that looks delicious and my back pays for it with an overflowing food bag. 

Next stop was the post office so I could see what the hours were on Saturday for picking up a package and bouncing two forward to Erwin, TN. After that we went to the outfitter so I could grab a new Nalgene bottle to replace my bladder that would be shipped home the next day. Then back to the hostel for the day.

I had actually planned to hit up the tavern for the famous hiker burger and a few drafts for dinner, but we ended up staying in and pigging out on all the extra crap we brought back from shopping instead. Bear and I talked for a while and Sara C. had shown up while we were gone, she actually passed me outside the outfitter enroute to the library.

Jeff stopped in and asked if we wanted to try some of his seafood soup he had made and that was a definite yes. It had shrimp, mussels, octopus, squid and clam in it with a tomato soup broth. It was quite good and he offered us full bowls of it along with some bread.

A couple with their dog came in for the night and we all talked for a little while before they went out for the night.

After a while we all made our way to our beds, I laid there for a while so I could catch up my trail journal and upload photos since I finally had Wi-Fi and time. I read for a little while too before dozing off.

Day 33 – Zero in Hot Springs

The only thing I really needed to do today was hit up the post office. The night before a section hiker had asked if any of us wanted breakfast on him in the morning so Sara C. and I went with him to the diner around 0800. The breakfast skillet was amazing, there was so much food piled onto that thing. We all talked for a while and then our host excused himself since he had a long ride home to see his kids.

I finished up my meal and we wandered down to the post office. Sara dropped off her post and I mailed off my bladder and picked up a box of food I had sent myself from Franklin. I also forwarded mine and Gambit’s bounce boxes to Erwin.

I stopped in to the welcome center on the way back to the hostel. I found the brochure I was looking for on the hot springs here in town, I was hoping to get in for an hour soak sometime, but when I called later all of their spas were reserved for the day.

I headed back to the hostel so I could take Gambit out for a little bathroom walk. He had vecome known as ‘floor mat’ since his favorite spot seemed to be on the floor right by the entrance.

Most of the rest of the day was spent getting my pack ready to leave in the morning. I spent a while downloading more music to my phone, also got more caught up on my journal. I never did get to attempt that hiker burger, maybe I’ll come back some day for it and a soak in the mineral water.

AT Thru-hike Day 25 to Day 29

The Smokies

Day 25 – Fontana Dam to Mollies Ridge Shelter

I woke up pretty well rested after my first night sleeping on an actual bed since starting the trail. I actually slept better in my hammock out on the property than I had in the previous hostels I stayed at, but this was a real bed with a box spring and it felt good.

They had breakfast prepared by the time I was out of my room that morning. I enjoyed a bagel with salmon and cream cheese, a bowl of fruit with yogurt and granola mixed in, a glass of orange juice, and a cup of English Breakfast tea. They had worked up my bill while I was enjoying breakfast and let me know the total for the last four days. It was $230, which was not bad at all considering all the shuttling and slackpacking, not to mention this is a B&B.

We headed to Fontana Dam fairly early, 0730 maybe. Jeff parked the car and walked with me across the bridge so he could take my picture by the sign.

I shook his hand and thanked him again for the wonderful stay and company for the previous four days. We parted ways and up the road I walked. When I got to the trail turn off a mile up the road I dropped my pack and took ten minutes or so to get in some solid stretching now that my muscles and joints were warmed up. Also, I wasnt terribly excited about the 3000 foot climb with this food heavy pack.

While I was stretching Penguin wandered up the road and we talked for a few minutes while I was getting my gear back on. He flew past me not long after we started the climb up, I feel like I’m always the slowest on, but at least I don’t have to stop every 10 minutes now to catch my breath.

I took a break at a big log I came across after climbing for an hour or so and enjoyed one of the hard boiled eggs I brought along.

Early in the climb, looking back down on Fontana Lake.

I got back on the trail and I passed the ATC ridgerunner, Nick or Master Splinter, that had just started that day. He was cutting away a smaller fallen tree that was on the path with his little hand saw. We just chatted for a few minutes and I moved on. I took another little break and ate the beast if an apple I was carrying, I’m pretty sure it weighed a pound. 

My next backpack dropping break was at Shuckstack (2000 foot climb), I took a few minutes to go the fire tower for some pictures and explore the immediate area.

Remains of an old building on Shuckstack.

A look back toward Fontana Dam from the Shuckstack fire tower.

Eastern view from Shuckstack fire tower, I would be climbing many of those over the next days.

I got back on the trail after eating my last hard boiled egg and a small bag of trail mix. I try not to sit any longer than 10 to 15 minutes or my internal body heater shuts off and I need to add layers.

The rest of the climb to the shelter wasn’t terribly bad, I kind of wanted to push on another 3.1 miles to the next shelter, but I figured I would just stay here for the night, especially after I got some warm food in me and the sun started dropping.

Mollies Ridge Shelter

In the Smokies you have to stay in a shelter unless they are full, unfortunately there were only five of us staying there so I had to sleep in the shelter. Day and section hikers can reserve spots whereas there are only four spots remaining for thru-hikers that become first dibs.

A hiker named Alex, that I’d met in Franklin, came wandering up the trail. He’d taken a few days off to hang out with a day hiker in Fontana that he met on the trail. I didn’t expect to see him again after Franklin since he’s much faster than I am and can hike longer. We caught up a bit while he made his dinner and we both prepped our beds for the night.

Hiker midnight approached fast and we were all silent by 2000. I did my usual reading of a few chapters of Game of Thrones while wrapped up in my mummy bag before falling asleep.

Day 26 – Mollies Ridge Shelter to Derrick Knob Shelter

I slept like crap like usual in a shelter since I’m a hammock camper I don’t have a pad. I got up, changed into my hiking clothes, quickly made breakfast, and got all my stuff packed up. I think I was second on the trail that morning.

I got to Russell Field Shelter and took advantage of the close water source. While down there I saw Bucky filling up water and we caught up a bit. Him, Wade and Norseman all stayed there that night. 

I pulled out my water filter so I could fill my Nalgene and my Camelbak, but it wasn’t working right so I opened it up. The filter had a coating of ice on it so I rinsed it off in the water which got most of it, but there was just a little near the top that wouldn’t go away. Most modern plastic filters would be screwed at this point, but that is why I use this old beast with a ceramic filter.

I knew the rest of the ice needed some time to melt off so I put it in the inner pocket of my parka while I hiked and just used Aquamira drops to treat the water in my Nalgene bottle. 

Back at the shelter Norseman and Wade popped out when they realized I was around, we got caught up on the previous days, also in the shelter were Penguin and a new hiker I was introduced to that goes by Butterfeet. I excused myself so I could attempt to beat them all to Spence Field Shelter where there was finally a privy for nobo hikers.

Love the perfectly cut out archway for the trail.

Unfortunately, everyone ended up passing my slow ass so I didn’t get first dibs on the privy… The water at Spence Field was piped so I topped up my water again and treated it with Aquamira while waiting on my turn.

I got back on the trail and not long after Alex caught up to me. We ended up hiking the rest of the day together to Derrick Knob Shelter. He filled me in on the last couple of days that he zeroed. He was introduced to some deep meditation techniques that help you get in touch with your inner self.

Yep, I climbed over that too.

We got to Rocky Top and enjoyed the view from up there. I’m pretty sure this next picture was from up there.

View from Rocky Top.

At Thunderhead Mountain you couldn’t see much with trees surrounding the top so the only image I have for that is this bench mark.

Thunderhead Mountain bench mark.

After we got off the mountain and back down to a calmer wind area we dropped our packs and ate a proper lunch. Not long after getting back on the trail we passed a fellow nobo thru hiker trail named Storyteller. He’d injured his knee and thought his hike was done, we offered him help, but he kept refusing and just wanted to hobble to the next shelter alone. 

Both Alex and I being military vets and Alex an EMT, we couldn’t let that happen so we gave him his space, but slowed down our pace so we could keep him in sight. Finally, he said if we really wanted to help than to just go to the next shelter, about a mile away, and drop our packs so we could carry his for him. We both offered our trekking poles since he didn’t have any and he refused them.

So Alex being the faster of us took off to get to the shelter and drop his gear. He also enlisted the help of Bucky to come back and give him a hand. I got to the shelter, dropped my bag and by the time I started heading back down they were nearly up the climb to the shelter. Alex carrying his pack and Storyteller was using the trekking poles they brought back for him and he was moving pretty fast for an old injured guy.

We all got settled into the shelter for the night and made our dinners and carried on into the evening with stories from the previous weeks since we separated in Hiawassee. The temperature would be below freezing again so we got a fire going in the fireplace to try and warm the shelter some before bed. It definitely did the trick early on, but I woke up anyway freezing in the middle of the night so I busted out my emergency bivy to try and keep some more heat in.

Day 27 – Derrick Knob Shelter to Mt Collins Shelter

I woke up covered in moisture from the bivy keeping all my heat in, not sure it was the best idea considering I would now be packing up my mummy bag with a damp surface, but at least I was warm for the last couple of hours of sleep.

Storyteller was up early and took off, last I’d heard he was planning to hobble to Clingmans Dome to get a shuttle off the trail. Later found out he took Advil for the first time and the pain magically disappeared.

Today was my birthday and I would be climbing the highest point on the AT for it! It would be a long 13.5 mile hike day, including an extra .5 mile to the shelter. I tried to get a fairly early start again, but was one of the last few out of the shelter that morning. The few behind me of course passed me on the trail further up.

Silers Bald bench mark.

Silers Bald was the first obstacle of the day, it was a gradual 800 foot elevation gain over a five mile stretch from Derrick Knob Shelter. The next part to Clingmans Dome was about a 1000 foot gain over four miles, both were quite pleasant climbs and the view from Clingmans Dome observation tower were amazing.

North view from the tower.

East view from the tower.

I took an East and South view as well, but the files were somehow corrupted and not loading properly.

The climb down to the shelter wasn’t too bad, lots of ice on the trails and I spent a bit of time walking the edge of the trail since it was a frozen stream. After dropping a few hundred feet the ice mostly disappeared. 

I had considered continuing the trail to Newfound Gap, hitching a ride into town and enjoying a motel for my birthday, but instead I took the .5 mile side trail to Mt Collins Shelter. Fortunately, the shelter was pretty much full so I put up my hammock!

I socialized for a little bit, Bucky made me a paper cake and presented it to me while I was making my dinner. Not long after finishing I excused myself to my hammock for my usual routine of reading for a bit before dozing off.

Day 28 – Mt Collins Shelter to Icewater Spring Shelter

I had planned for this day to be a 14.6 miles, but sometimes opportunities arise in the form of pizza that are difficult to pass up. Instead it was a 7.3 mile day.

Got up, packed up and did all the normal morning stuff. I slept so much better in my hammock than on those damn hard shelter platforms. Water was a bit downhill so I made the trip down there to fill my bladder before taking off. I treated it with Aquamira again instead of filtering. At this point I was seriously considering sending the filter home and just using the drops the rest of the trek.

I got on the trail right after Bucky and Wade and really enjoyed the walk to Newfound Gap. Not long after Penguin and Butterfeet zoomed past like they do every morning. Penguin is a 48 year old runner and Butterfeet an 18 year old with lots of energy.

The trail views this morning were amazing. There were streams of light creeping in between the canopy of trees. Parts of the trail were logs cut and placed to walk on instead of what I’m guessing will be muddy ground come spring.

Rings of logs scatter the trail for walking steps.

Logs split in half and textured for grip on the trail.

I caught back up with Penguin and Butterfeet at Indian Gap, they were standing around an information sign that talked about how the Native Americans used carts with sleighs on them to navigate the rocky trails.

The climb over the next little hill kind if sucked, but made it through and popped into Newfound Gap. Seems everyone was going into town to eat at a restaurant called Mellow Mushroom, so I was easily swayed to go along. Wade tried calling the shuttle in AWOL and had no luck so we started asking around after Norseman showed up. He had slipped on the ice the day before and hurt his left quad, he actually walked the road from Indian Gap to Newfound Gap because it hurt less.

Wade and Bucky found a ride down and Penguin and Butterfeet did as well, so it was up to Norseman and I to stick out the old thumbs and hope for the best. One of the kids that was with us for the night two days past was there being dropped off by his grandparents and they offered to drive us down once they said their goodbyes.

So we made our way down and caught up with everyone at the restaurant. They served pizza and beer so I was quite happy. I ended up going with a hefeweisenbier import from Germany, which was just amazing. I had a Caesar salad for an appetizer and ordered a large pizza called The Dude, which I devoured 3/4 of.

Norseman was getting off trail to give his quad time to heal and wasn’t sure if it would be the end of his hike this year or not, he was pretty bummed about it, but his girlfriend would be showing up in a couple of days so he had that to look forward to.

We parted ways after eating, Bucky, Wade and I stopped by the NOC outfitter store in town. I got Gambit a bandana to wear when I meet back up with him in two days and another sticker to add to my Nalgene.

They wanted to stop by the liquor store but sadly it was Sunday and it was closed. There was a wine tasting place open so Bucky and I stopped in there while Wade was at the outfitter. Bucky picked up a bottle for us to drink for our birthdays since his is tomorrow. It was quickly transferred to a Nalgene bottle upon leaving the store.

We made our way up the road a bit and all stood on the side of the road where a vehicle could pull off and stuck out our thumbs for a hirch back to the gap. It took a while but finally someone pulled over anf it was a guy we’d spent the night with two days before… I think. His girlfriend was driving him back up to his car and he made her pull over to pick us up.

As per the norm, Wade and Bucky disappeared quickly up the trail and I did my slow climbing/walking thing that I do. The 1000 foot climb out of Newfound Gap was no joke! Might have been the pizza and beer in me that made me slower than normal or mayhaps I was just tired.

Random view from the trail.

I finally got the the shelter around 1530 or so and proceeded to get my hammock up right away. A couple new hikers showed up that we met, Bear and Baskets, both of which are so much faster hikers. We all sat around a talked for a few hours. 

Sara C. showed up, she was with us for a couple days earlier, but did my possible plan I thought up and went right into Newfound Gap the day before. She was taken care of well and treated to much trail magic the night before and throughout the day before getting back on the trail.

There was a chance of rain so my tarp was up purely for that reason that night, it was such a gorgeous clear day. After splitting the wine and drinking it everyone made there way to bed by what has become our hiker midnight (2000 hours). I’m not even sure I read that night, I was so pleasantly full of beer and pizza I probably fell right asleep.

Day 29 – Icewater Spring Shelter to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter

We woke up in a wet cloud this morning. The Smoky Mountains were truly smoky looking for those in the clouds and I imagine for those looking up from below in the valleys. It wasn’t terribly cold so that was a major positive.

I ate leftover pizza and got everything packed up, the plan for the day was only 12.1 miles which wouldn’t take too long, but it was looking to be a very wet and humid day, the clouds were going nowhere.

Truly smoky in the Smokies.

There wasn’t too much up or down on this section, and it was kind of miserable being so wet. It was too chilly to go without the rain jacket and just a bit too warm to have it on. I had mine on and off throughout the day.

I think I was the last of our group to make it into the shelter, there was no space for renting or hammocking nearby the shelter so we were all in the shelter that night. There was a mass tangle of clothes lines all over for everyone attempting to dry out hiking clothes even a little. The winds had picked up and it was kind of miserable to even go out and cook, but got to get the warm food in the belly before bed.

A few more random hikers made it into the shelter throughout the evening. It ended up getting full and a few people were on the floor, I think one even set up his tent right outside the tarp.

Apart from the miserable wetness and cold, water supply was right next to the shelter and the privy very close as well. Got to look at the positives right?

The shelter got quiet fairly early, I think the rain and cold just drained everyone. I read for a little while before falling asleep, woke up around midnight and read some more until I fell back asleep.

Day 30 – Tri-Corner Knob Shelter to Standing Bear Farm

I was so happy that I would have Gambit back today! 

It was so windy, it never died down during the night and our clothes never dried at all, mostly all they did was get cold… my pants weren’t too bad to get on and I my socks never got wet the day before so I was good from the waist down. My shirt though was still soaked from sweat and rain the day before. I decided to just pack it and hike in my fleece top instead.

I did a doubled up warm version of the Nestle Breakfast Essentials for breakfast. I’m finding I enjoy it warm in the mornings.

I had a little extra pep in my step knowing that there would be a lot of downhill and I would see Gambit so I was moving a little faster than normal getting onto the trail. After a short walk on the trail i started burning up in my fleece so I stopped to switch into my wet merino wool top instead with the rain jacket over it. 

I started out with my rain skirt on as well, but ended up taking it off after a few very windy ridge walks. My pack cover kept trying to blow off into the wind as well so that had to be readjusted a couple times.

It was just a little foggy early on in the hike and it slowly went away as we dropped in elevation. By the time we got to Cosby Knob Shelter for lunch 1000 feet lower the clouds were mostly gone.

View out from Cosby Knob Shelter.

I was told by several people to do the side trail to the Mt. Cammerer lookout tower, but I was sick of the Smokies and just wanted to get to my dog and out of wet clothes so I walked right past the turn off.

So awesome to be below the clouds!

Wade, Bucky and I were together for the rest of the hike down into Davenport Gap. Wade ended up rolling his ankle so I did the KT Tape wrap on it to see if it would help. He got back up and said most of the pain was gone, but it felt stiff. He asked, “what is this witchcraft?”

At the next shelter we called for a pickup at Davenport Gap instead of walking the last three miles. Right as we walked onto the road our ride showed up and he shuttled us the rest of the way to Standing Bear Farm.

They showed us around a little bit and then I saw Gambit and just walked off to him and dropped to my knees so I could hug him and give him kisses. I was sooooo happy to have him back with me.

I got my bunk and picked up my resupply box. They have a clothes drier but you have to wash clothes by hand. I washed my camp clothes so I would have something clean to wear when I did my hiking clothes. Also, having something clean to wear after showering was very appealing. After my shower I got all my wet hiking stuff washed and dried.

Most of the rest of the night consisted of eating and talking with the people we met in the Smokies and introducing some of them to Gambit for the first time. I also spent some time getting gear ready to head out the next day. After I got in bed I did a little bit of blogging to catch up my hiker journal. I was ready for sleep by 2100 after having a couple beers to replenish some carbs.

AT Thru-hike Day 21 to Day 24

Slackpacking days!

Day 21 – NOC to Stecoah Gap

I was up by 0445 and figured I’d just go inside and read for a little while until Jeff and Cynthia got up. After they got up I was asked what I wanted to do for breakfast so I used some hard boiled farm eggs that a neighbor gave me yesterday. I made two egg salad sandwiches and ate one for breakfast along with a banana that I picked up yesterday.

I got the day pack loaded up with a full Camelbak, some food and a few necessities I thought I may need throughout the day. I did my normal morning routine with slathering my feet and inner thighs with Body Glide and powdering my bum with some Anti-Monkey Butt. I recently did a post on The Trek about my love for those two products.

For that sore spot on my heel, I attached a strip of moleskin above it so it wouldn’t rub against the inside of my boot. In the end it didn’t help much and I changed up how it was taken care of over the next two days.

We were at the NOC by 0800 and on the trail shortly after. The 3000 foot climb actually wasn’t that bad, of course, it may have just been that I wasn’t lugging around my 40 pound pack that made all the difference. We seemed to be cruising along at a fairly steady 1.5 miles per hour.

Memorial right before the 3-mile mark for the day.

Just like in Georgia early on I started seeing those ice shoots coming out of the ground on the side of the trail. These ones were slightly different than the Georgia ones, they seemed to be a lot thinner and longer. Reminded me of hair or fur made of ice. Gambit really enjoyed grabbing a mouthful every time we would pass one up.

Needle ice.

Needle ice through my macro lens.

Apparently, the ice shoots are called needle ice. It occurs when the ground soil is above freezing and the air temperature is below freezing. The water capillaries in the soil push out the water and it freezes after exposure to the air.

The night before it was below freezing and there were icicles at one of the water points on the way up. Also, the ground was very crunchy to walk on, especially on the northern portions going up the trail.

Icicles at one of the springs.

I sat down and took a 20 minute or so break around the 4.5 mile mark, just short of the “jump-up”. We met a bunch of hikers that all took a break as well shortly after sitting down. They were the Valentine 6 that I’d bumped into the previous two days. They were also slackpacking up to Stecoah, but were all younger and quicker than myself. I had doubts that I’d see them again after I followed them back onto the trail.

The rest of the climb to Swim Bald wasn’t terribly remarkable. At the top were a bunch of trees and no view points. We just pushed right through and onto Sassafras Gap Shelter so I could check the register and sign the book myself. We were only there for a few minutes and moved on to the climb up Cheoah Bald.

Toward the top of this part of the trail it got fairly steep and I actually had to stop a couple times. Gambit would do his standing up the trail thing looking back at me like I was the slowest person ever. Got to the top and one side had a fairly decent view, to the southwest I believe it was.

Cheoah Bald bench mark.

Southern view from the bald.

I dropped my pack and enjoyed my orange and egg salad sandwich I brought along for the day. Gambit nibbled at his food a little but was mostly just thirsty.

After chilling out for a short time, I got my pack back on and we hit the trail. The rest of the hike was mostly just downhill and nothing terribly exviti g caught my eyes. We did run across a couple at Simp Gap that were just on a day hike.

When we got to the first hill top after and my phone finally had service I called Creekside Paradise to arrange my pickup for 1545. I popped out in the parking area a little before pickup time and hung out on the picnic table for a few minutes until Jeff showed up for my shuttle back.

I requested a ride to the Ingles in town so I could pick up a few things that I was craving and thought I would need through the Smokies. I wanted to make French toast in the morning so I got some bread and I was really craving some chocolate milk. Bought a quart and it disappeared before we got back to the B&B. I bumped into a fellow thru-hiker named Penguin that Gambit and I passed a few days back.

Jeff showed me how to operate the hot tub when we got back so I could just hop in whenever I felt like it. I took a shower and just relaxed for a little while until dinner was served. I was tired so I excused myself and Gambit and I went out to my hammock in the yard. Sleep found me fast that night.

Day 22 – Stecoah Gap to Yellow Creek Gap

I expected today’s hike to be super easy after the climb out of NOC yesterday. I kind of slept in a little until the sun was up before heading inside. I got right into making the French toast after I was shown where everything was to make it.

It was pretty amazing. I had a banana along with six slices that were covered in real maple syrup and sprinkled with powdered sugar. I had four more slices left that would be enjoyed at a later time, maybe I would make a sandwich with them the next day.

I got that spot on my heel wrapped with some moleskin to keep it from rubbing on the days hike. Did my normal foot and thigh treatments and got dressed shortly after. I got Gambit’s lightly loaded pack on him and we got on the road to Stecoah Gap.

Must have hit the trail around 0830 and the climb up into the foresy wasn’t too bad until I realized I was halfway up Jacob’s Ladder. I had to stop a few times to catch my breath while Gambit looked down at me from above like he does.

Not long after making it over the top of that climb we wandered into Brown Fork Gap Shelter. Decent shelter with a privy and piped spring nearby.

Brown Fork Gap Shelter.

Brown Fork Gap Shelter spring down the hill.

I enjoyed my enormous jonagold apple while sitting there and logged myself into the register as passing through. The rest of the hike was pretty uneventful and I was ready for pickup at the gap at 1400.

For dinner that night they made chicken satay and salad. After dinner I spent a good 30 minutes in the hot tub. The jets were just amazing, I found so many parts on my body that I didn’t even realize were sore; mostly my lower legs between the calf and heel.

Gambit and I went out to the hammock not long after my soak. Like most nights I read for a short time before falling asleep all bundled up in my mummy bag.

Day 23 – Yellow Creek Gap to Fontana Dam

I woke up around 0700, it was kind of a sleep in day for me since I had a pretty short slack pack hike for the day. I think I had leftover French toast for breakfast this morning.

I got my pack loaded up with a little bit of food and about 2L of water. I loaded up Gambit’s pack with a bag of his good and about 1L of water. We made our way to the trailhead around 0830 and I was on the trail shortly after since the B&B was only a couple miles away.

At the Gap I bumped into a hiker named Tic Tic. Gambit was pretty excited to see her like he is with everyone. Got his pack on and we were heading up the trail shortly after. We went right past the first shelter since it was just a short distance in.

On the climb past the shelter we passed a hiker changing out his boots for his shoes, I don’t recall what his name was. Right after we started heading up the hill two more hikers came up from behind and Gambit ran back down the hill to them. 

It was Wade and Bucky! 

Two of the guys I started with on Feb 6. They had gotten off the trail in Hiawassee because of blisters and sore knees. Turns out they took five days off there to let everything recover properly. We hiked together to the restrooms and parking area by the marina of NC 28. They had arranged for a shuttle to pick them and Norseman up there.

Gambit and I kept pushing on after a short break since my ride would be at the dam visitor center at 1400. I got service on my phone somewhere around the Fontana Dam Shelter and I called Standing Bear Farm to arrange for a pickup of Gambit while I did the section through the Smokies. They were already coming out for another pickup at 1500 and wanted to get Gambit at the same time. I gave them the address and phone number for the B&B so they could pick him up later in the afternoon.

Fontana Dam Shelter

Lake side of Fontana Dam w/ the Smokies in the background.

Fontana Dam

I didn’t want Gambit to leave that early since tomorrow would be a zero and I wanted to spend it with him, but I understand them not wanting to make another three hour drive the next day to pick him up. I was sad to see him go, but knew I would see him again in six days when I got through Davenport Gap.

Jeff showed up at the Fontana Dam Visitor Center around 1400 as we agreed upon when I started. I met up with another thru-hiker named Joe that would be spending the night at the B&B that night. He took us through some back roads back to the hostel and drove us by the dam that was used in the movie The Fugitive.

Around 1700 we went into Robinsville for a resupply run. On the way into town we met up with Maria from Standing Bear Farm to drop off Gambit. She had one if her caretakers, Hawk, with her  to distract him with treats right away when he got in the van. I paid her the $250 they charge for the pick-up and petsitting for the week through the Smokies.

Joe and I were dropped off at the Mexican restaurant in town and we would have about two hours to kill before they would pick us up at the Ingles. The food was really good, but sadly it is in a dry county so no beer to go with it. 

I went to Ingles next and picked up some more fresh fruit, Reese’s Pieces, and some ice cream to enjoy later. They were there to pick us up right in schedule and we were on our way back to tge B&B. The rest of the night consisted of eating ice cream, soaking in the hot tub, and reading a bit before bed.

Day 24 – Zero Day

My main plan for this zero day was to go to the urgent care in Bryson City to get my right foot looked at because of that burning sensation in the toes after six or so miles into my days hiking.

There was rain in the forecast so after I woke up I got my tarp and hammock packed up while it was dry out and would spend the last night here using the bed in the room all my gear was stored in.

It was about a 45 minute drive to Bryson City, so we left around 0815 to get there right as they were opening at 0900. I got in after a short wait and I was given a few things:

1. The results of the x-ray showed no stress fracture(s). Major positive.
2. I had a choice of two different steroid options: orally for ten days or a shot in the hip right then. I took the shot in the hip.
3. Also received a prescription for Tramadol.

I picked up my prescription at the Walgreen’s nearby and Jeff showed me around town a bit. I was hungry so we stopped at this local deli shop called The Filling Station. I had an amazing triple decker club sandwich to go.

On the way back Jeff stopped at this property that had a massive model train setup. I was thinking small model trains like my dad had or setups like I’d seen in the past. This track setup was more like something a kid could ride on.

I don’t think the pictures do it justice. It actually started raining while I was taking pictures so I didn’t get the full track system included here.

For the rest of the day I spent some time stretching, I read quite a bit, I got my food and my now heavy ass bag packed up for the trip through the Smokies. I packed six days worth of food so I wouldn’t have to stop in Gatlinburg halfway through. My goal was to get back to my dog as quickly as possible.

AT Thru-Hike Day 15 to Day 20

Sorry for no pictures and just boring text for the first three days on this one, not a whole lot to see in towns.

Day 15/16 Franklin, NC

Zero days. I didnt plan to take two, but President’s Day shut the VA down on Monday so I was forced to stick around Franklin longer than planned. 

For the most part I was alright with the extra day off since I was trying to figure out how to keep my knee from hurting and was hoping to hear something from the brace shop in Asheville, NC.

Most of Monday consisted of consuming calories in the form of beer and greasy grilled and fried foods. I did go bowling that night with a few other hikers that showed up. I really don’t care much for bowling at all and tried to protest as they dragged me along anyway. I did have a little bit of fun so it wasn’t a waste of time.

On Tuesday, I hit ups  the post office fairly early to mail a box home and ship some extra supplies ahead to Hot Springs, NC. After I finished up there I stopped at the VA clinic to see if I could be seen for my knee and get some more ibuprofen for it. 

The wait actually wasn’t bad at all, I doubt it was much more than 30 minutes or so after getting checked in. The nurse brought me back and I explained the issue with my knee and she took some notes. I saw the doctor shortly after and he gave me a prescription for the ibuprofen I requested and I was on my way to the pharmacy.

At the pharmacy I was looking at knee braces while waiting on my prescription to be filled. They were all neoprene and I dreaded the thought of that being stuck on my leg for another 2100 miles. I was browsing at other things in the store and came across a box of KT Tape. I’d heard of people using it before for other joint issues and decided to try it out instead of a brace.

I picked up a few things at the Ingles grocery store nearby before heading back to the hostel. One of them being a small tub of ice cream because yum. On the way back in passed a bakery and stopped in to see what they had. I requested one of whatever had the most calories and a dozen donut holes. I was looking forward to binge eating this for my start back on the trail the next day.

I had also picked up some shave cream and a razor while I was at Ingles so I could hit my legs up before I started applying KT Tape to them. After I got back to the hostel in took a shower and shaved off that month plus of growth, it was kind of refreshing.

After my shower I watched a video on how to apply the tape and I felt I copied what they did pretty well. I gave it a few bends and maybe it was just my mind, but I thought I could and ready feel a difference. I figured I would grab Gambit and go on a couple mile walk just to be sure.

The pain was significantly reduced and it actually felt like it was disappearing as we walked around more. I was throughly impressed with this stuff. The only other pain left to take care of now would be the toe burning sensation. I looked up a foot clinic in the area and would plan to visit them in the morning to see if they had a ball pad insert for me.

Day 17 – Franklin, NC to Siler Bald Shelter

As soon as the foot shop opened at 0900 I called in to see if I could come by for a pad. She said she thought she had what I was looking for and said I could come by and look at it. I borrowed one of the bikes from the hostel and rode it out there in the sprinkling rain. 

The pad wasn’t exactly the same as the ones I had previously used, but I figured I could make it work. She gave it to me for free and I was on my way back to the hostel to put it in. I marked the bottom of my foot were the pain is at just like my podiatrist did and transferred that mark to my insole. I lined up the bump on the pad with the mark and pressed it into place. 

Got my boots back on and rode the bike to the post office next to bounce forward a box of extras to Hot Springs, NC. Came back to the hostel yet again and I let Zen know that I was ready for a shuttle back to the trail whenever he was free. He had a few things he had to take care of and asked if 1500 would be fine. I was ok with that since I was really only planning to go to the first shelter 4 miles in anyway.

I made a trip to Outdoor 76 and got a compression bag for my undequilt, which I should have had already,but never got around to getting one. I also got a stamp from them in my AT passport. After that a stop by Motor Co Diner for an amazing Hawaiian BBQ burger and fries. Totally worth stopping by here if you’re in Franklin. I was forced to wander over to Lazy Hiker and have one last Belgian Session before departing and also got an AT passport stamp there.

Wandered back to the hostel and met up with some other thru-hikers walking there as well. I don’t remember what there trail names were anymore, but all three of them were wearing ties and one of them had previously done the AT and PCT and was back out here to do the AT again.

I got a shuttle up to the gap a little after 1500 and when I got there I realized that I had left my trekking poles back at the hostel. My shuttle driver was generous enough to make at run back for them and I waited in the parking area with Gambit while he was gone.

I’m not exactly sure when it was that I finally got on the trail, but the sun was nearing the mountain tops around me. I only ended up making it to the first shelter 4.2 miles in and the last 1/2 mile with my headlamp on.

Day 18 – Siler Bald Shelter to Cold Spring Shelter

This was my first 15+ mile day and it was a bit rough. I was hoping to catch up some miles I missed the day before with starting so late in the day.

Siler Bald Shelter

Got up shortly after the sun popped up and followed pretty much the same morning routine that I do every day – pack up, eat and hit the trail.

The climb out of this shelter was kind of a miserable thing first thing in the morning. I was a bit stiff and it took some time to get my joints so loosened up. I’m not having to stop every 20 steps anymore, so big improvements in my ascent stamina over the last two weeks.

A fee miles into the hike I took a blue blaze to the historic site in AWOL’s guide. It turned out to be an old Ranger Station.

Info board

Wilson Lick Ranger Station

Ivy covered chimney stack

Well worth the visit as far as I was concerned. Someone before me had popped open one of the window shutters so I decided to have a little peek inside.

See, it was already open.

It was kind of eerie inside, but pretty cool seeing the actual floor layout and the construction of the building.

Inside view of the chimney.

Kitchen cabinets.

Kitchen sink.

Stairs to the attic.

The loft upstairs wasn’t much to see so I didn’t bother taking any pictures. Seems this place had been used in the past by other hikers or drifters, there was some trash on the floor upstairs.

To the right of the main house was what I presumed to be an equipment/storage shed and further to the right of that was the outhouse.

Storage shed.

Outhouse.

After we finished exploring we sat down and enjoyed some lunch before getting back to the trail.

As we got closer to Wayah Bald I started seeing a lot of fire damage again, I guess this part of the trail burned just this past fall. There must have been a lot of fuel around because this was the deepest burn I’d seen so far.

The burn damage on top of Wayah was horrible.

The views from the top were pretty cool, even with all the damaged trees.

Even the four posts on top of the stone tower were destroyed in the fires.

I didnt linger very long here as I was ready to move on and fire damaged areas like this kind of depress me. I popped into Wayah Bald Shelter to eat and top up my water for the next stretch to Cold Spring Shelter.

Gambit and I kind of dragged ass a bit getting to the next shelter. I think I need to eat and drink more throughout the day to keep my energy levels up more.

We got to the shelter an hour or so before the sun dropped, I got camp set up for the night and made dinner. I think it was Asian rice and tuna that night.

Cold Spring Shelter late in the afternoon.

My hammock was set up on an overlook of the little cities off in the distance. As the sun dropped lights popped up all over the place. After I turned off my headlamp the stars in the sky also lit up like millions of distant little house lights all across the sky.

I read for a short while and started hearing at least one mouse getting into Gambit’s food. I kept popping on my light to see if I could find it and one time it was just chilling in his food bowl. I grabbed a boot to try and hit it but the little bugger was too quick.

I finally dozed off and woke up to coyotes howling and yipping not too far away. It stirred Gambit and he ran to that direction and barked up a storm. 

Day 19 – Cold Spring Shelter to A. Rufus Morgan Shelter

Next time I woke up the sun was creeping up the horizon and the bottom edge was starting to turn a blazing orange.

Gorgeous sunrise near Cold Spring Shelter.

I laid in bed for a while and just watched the sun rise as the fog rolled in to the valley, after the 15 mile day yesterday I wasn’t in a terrible hurry to get up.

I was pretty much forced out of bed when Gambit decided he had to go visit the hikers that showed up at the shelter below. I got him back up the hill and leashed him to a tree while I made breakfast and packed up camp. The fog brought in a lot of moisture so like many other days my tarp was packed up damp.

We hit the trail and made it down to Tellico Gap fairly quickly. I had hoped to hit the NOC this day and possibly make it to Sassafras Gap Shelter, but that wasn’t in the cards.

Gambit and I hung out in Tellico Gap for about 30 minutes to eat and stretch before making the climb up to Wesser Bald. I noticed the trail was a little out of the way so I made a stone AT on the ground and out am arrow pointing to where the trail led. Four other thru-hikers passed us while we hung out and I pointed them all in the right direction.

The 800ish foot climb wasn’t terrible and I actually spent most of the time chatting with a fellow hiker that was making up fire miles since everything here was shut down in the fall due to fires while he was doing his SoBo.

Got to the top and I tied Gambit off to one of the tower legs while I climbed to the top for some photos. The views were amazing!

Southern view from the tower.

Northern view from the tower.

Gambit and I both finished off our water while taking a break at the tower so the plan was to fill at the shelter below. I misread the water info for the shelter and walked right past it as I wandered down the hill to the shelter. After I got to the shelter I was looking around for the water sign and couldn’t find one.

Looked in AWOL again and realized it was .1 miles back UP the hill at the cistern that was off the trail, so I put my pack back on and back up the trail we went. I topped up my Camelbak with about 2L of water, figuring that should be plenty for the trip down the mountain to NOC; also, filtered and filled Gambit’s water bottles so he had about 1.5L.

On the way down I called Creekside Paradise on the A.T. to let them know I would probably be at Stecoah Gap the next evening and that I would confirm it when I got to NOC in a few hours.

There were a couple tree openings on the way down that provided some wonderful views. This was one of my favorites at the “jump-down” I believe. 

The trail was so dry from the fires a couple months back which was causing me to constantly take sips off my Camelbak hose. As we got lower in elevation it got much better and a few really poor springs showed up on the trail, mostly it was just little drip from rocks or a wet surface. I was so glad I went with 2L of water.

Gambit seemed to be enjoying the trail. He would do his run ahead a little bit thing, turn profile and look back like he was asking if my slow ads was coming. He makes my days on the trail so much fun; every day he does something ridiculous that just makes me laugh at him.

My goofy puppy, love him so much.

We rolled into A. Rufus Morgan Shelter probably around 1630 and my feet were absolutely killing me so I was done for the day. A small spot on the outer edge of my right heel developed a really sore spot which I thought might be a blister. I got my boots off to look at it and it wasn’t a blister! I think it was just pinching in my boot from all the uneven walking surface on the nearly 3000 foot hike down from Wesser.

I put my feet in the creek for as long as I could put up with the cold to help reduce the swelling and soreness. Rain was in the forecast for the night so I got my hammock and tarp set up behind the shelter. 

I spent some time small talking with the other hikers in the shelter while I made my potato soup. Gambit was mostly just pooped, he barely touched his food or water bowls and just chilled out in the shelter. After I finished eating and cleaned up, I excused myself and hit the hammock for the night. I did my usual reading for a short time before finally getting tired enough to sleep.

This was one of those nights that Gambit decided to spend the night in the shelter with the hikers instead of sleeping under me in my hammock. Apparently, he had really bad gas that night so it wasn’t a total loss for me. 😂

Day 20 – A. Rufus Morgan Shelter to NOC

Everyone that was in the shelter was gone or just leaving by the time I finally got up. Young kids seem to be early risers; I prefer to sleep in a bit, especially if I had a rough day previously. Also, I’m just not really in a hurry on this hike.

Got everything packed up, ate breakfast and decided I would call Creekside Paradise when I got to NOC to see if they could pick me up and I’d turn the day into a nero. It was just a short 1 mile hike to the center so it wasn’t bad at all, but the spot on my heel was still bugging me.

Additionally, I was out of dinners and breakfasts and only had a couple snacks left, so there was no way we were going to make it to Stecoah without a resupply. Gambit was out of food as well and I had a dropbox waiting for us in Robinsville.

I called up Creekside Paradise and they said they could be there to pick me up in about an hour. I just chilled out by the river and listened to the water flow by while waiting. When it was getting closer to pick up time we made our way back out toward the road.

Cynthia from the B&B/hostel picked me up and from there we went right into Robbinsville for resupply and I picked up a foot long sub at Subway. I actually ordered my sandwich based purely on which one had the most calories, I’m really starting to get more of an appetite.

On the trip to the B&B I was tossing around the idea of staying there for a couple days and do slackpacking the whole time. I was going to strip my pack down and use it, but they offered me a day pack to use instead.

This hostel came with a house full of five hound dogs so when we pulled up we had to step back and see how Gambit would react with them. He seemed a little unsure of what to do at first and tried to keep his distance a bit while he figured them out. After a short time he was running around the yard with them.

I found two trees in the yard that would be my hammock supports for the next couple of days. I got it set up and they let me put all my gear in one of the rooms. My next step was a shower and laundry. I was given a bathrobe so I could wash everything at once after my shower. I got to sit around the house in the robe for about two hours while waiting on it to finish.

Got back into my hiking clothes again and spent a bit of time outside with Gambit and the other dogs. One of the neighbor dogs, Duke, came down for a visit and him and Gambit hit it off pretty quickly and they played for a while in the creek and ran around the yard.

Gambit and Duke.

The owners Jeff and Cynthia offer dinner to the people that stay for $15. My stay with camping was only  $10 per night. I figured I would be conservative and sleep in my hammock for the whole stay. Dinner this night was a very tasty beef stew with garlic bread.

I was invited to use the hot tub if I wanted, but I was pretty tired and made my way to the hammock not long after it got dark. Tomorrow I was planning to slack pack from NOC to Stecoah Gap and I needed my rest. I read for a couple chapters in Game of Thrones and went to bed.